Once a Waitress

Note: this is an edited version of an article that first appeared in Milk Bar Mag.

A smart new eatery has opened in Brunswick, with dessert superstar turned savory queen Phillipa Sibley at the helm, smack in the middle of Sydney road’s thoroughfare (on the corner of Sydney and Albert Streets of course).

Doors open at 8am – simple breakfasts of piadini and pastries to begin, and a full breakfast menu to follow in January when the kitchen has settled in.

For now it’s all day dining off the very modern menu. If you’re snacking at the bar the pizzas will please (perhaps the Albert St special – roasted peppers, pork and fennel sausage with smoked mozzarella). Or if you like it salty try the potted rainbow trout rillettes or the deliciously moist fresh broad bean felafel served with tangy tahini yoghurt.

Catering to those after something more substantial there’s a selection of pastas (try saffron gnocchi with braised veal, broad beans and sage) and modern Mediterranean themed mains with subtle European influences, from coteletta of pork with red cabbage and apple slaw, to a summer cassoulet. There’s charcuterie and cheese aplenty, and of course there’s the calling card of Sibley’s signature deserts (the ‘Snickers’ of Masterchef fame was the special on the day of my visit).

A side-room retail space acts as both bottle shop and providore (with a peep hole window into the kitchen to boot). With a focus on hyper-local labels (stocking Brunswick produce first and foremost, then moving outwards) there’s more stock to come, but the tidy help-yourself space boasts the finest breads, pickles, cheeses, smoked fish, charcuterie and crackers your local dollars can buy. There’s a sustainable focus – refillable oil bottles on a return trade system are available now, soon there will terrines, pizzas, condiments and potted hams available on the ‘zero-packaging’ system of reusable glass containers.

The Sibley factor is high – there’s a copy of her new cookbook on display everywhere you look – but hell, if she was the Executive Chef at my restaurant I’d probably take out a full page ad in the Epicure. Albert St F&W isn’t going to need to ride one her reputation to find success though – the sheer style and quality of the food, service and decor will speak for itself. A delicious journey to be sure.

Albert St Food & Wine
Corner of Albert St & Sydney Rd, Brunswick
8354 6600
Monday to Thursday 8am to 12pm, Friday to Saturday 8am to 1am, Sunday 8am to 11pm.
www.albertst.com.au

I’ve discovered a new food problem with my new career. As I no longer work in a cafe where I can gleefully pick at any edible substance (little chorizo here, little aioli there) I’ve started to become a little peckish around the three thirty mark. I’ve usually got a beer in hand at that time, so the it has all become a bit of a shock, with the niggling feeling in the bottom of my empty belly. And I’m sober, tragedy.

I’ve begun a search for fun (but healthy-ish) afternoon snacks. For your information, Country Cup Flavours of the World Tom Yum soup does not taste anything like Tom Yum soup. Not even close. It actually tastes not unlike lemon scented dish washing liquid.

My friend Stef has suggested carrot sticks with hummus, which is a cracking idea. He is a vegan, and I’ve not really met that many vegans, so I am rather interested to pick his brains over the vegan diet. Also, Criterion street cafe do a great vegetable foccacia which is vegan, if anyone is interested.

On a non-vegan tract, I’m really into those little baby-bell cheeses, which are super fun to eat. I’ve been forcing down little pots of yogurt, but it’s not really working, because I don’t like yogurt much, I just think I do.

My housemate Lucy suggests the humble Freddo frog, as they are available from the tuck-shop at the art school, they are very small, so therefore portion controlled, while still delivering chocolatey goodness. She describes the basic chocolate version as “her rock” but occasionally dabbles in the odd Caramello Koala.

I would like to open up the comments page for suggestions on what else is good to have as a mid-afternoon snack. I’d be most grateful for any interesting ideas.